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Vie ferrate in the Dolomities

One of the greatest thrills an expert hiker can get is to walk a Via Ferrata. Few areas can compare with the Dolomites in terms of number, variety and sheer beauty of its “iron paths”. To help you discover these breathtaking routes, Dolomiti.org has created selection of some of the most beautiful Vie Ferrate in the “Pale Mountains”.Search for a Via Ferrata by mountain group, name, or level of difficulty using the Search function on the left.All itineraries have detailed descriptions, including technical information, logistical requirements, nearest mountain refuge etc, and are accompanied by a map and a selections of photos. A PDF version of each Ferrata can be downloaded and printed on a single sheet of A4, ready for use on the actual outing.Furthermore, it is possible read people’s comments about the Ferrate for useful hints and tips on their current state, their beauty, and much more.

A final word of warning: correct equipment, experience and in-depth knowledge of the mountain environment are vital ingredients if one is to enjoy a safe day out on a Via Ferrata. And before setting off make sure to contact the refuge warden or the local Mountain Guides for up-to-date information on the state of each Via Ferrata.

Rock Climbing in the Dolomites

The Dolomites are a challenging and beautiful range of steep limestone peaks situated

south of the Austrian/Italian border. Many of the peaks are over 3000m+ high, giving long

and demanding big wall routes up to 800m long. Some routes can be over 20-pitches long,

however the vast majority of them can be done in a single days outing or with an overnight

stay in a mountain hut or lodge.

The range and style of rock climbing routes that can be experienced in the Dolomites is unique

and varies from

Single pitch sports routes

Lots of long moderate alpine routes up to 800m long

Imposing big wall routes such as the north face of Cima Grande arguably one of the

great north walls within the Alps.

The Dolomites are particularly appealing to the pure rock climber for the following reasons when compared to their western Alps neighbours:

Impressive vertical limestone rock rising out of Alpine meadows

Relatively short walk-ins from the road to the base of the climb - this can be typically less than an hour

Majority of the routes can be climbed in a single day, reducing the amount of kit to be carried on the route, or with an overnight stay in a mountain hut or lodge

No ice fields or glaciers to cross to access the routes.

All of this along with it's abundance and variety of rock faces, makes the Dolomites one of the best places to go mountain rock climbing in the world.

The area is vast stretching some 50 miles (80Kms) east of Bolzano, which is split into different groups linked by a good road network making it easy to visit several of these areas in one trip. It would be impossible to describe all of the areas in detail here, though some of the more popular areas are described briefly below.

The Sella Towers & Piz Ciavazes have a reputation for short approaches, easy descents, and well-protected routes that are not too long. However just on the other side of the Sella Pass is the Sassolungo area, where the routes are a much more serious undertaking and have an "alpine" experience about them.

Between Cortina and St Kassian is the Falzarego Pass, which offers some of the best rock climbing in the Dolomites. There are plenty of south-facing mid-grade routes; with short easy approaches; uncomplicated descents; and solid, well-protected routes.

The highest mountain in the Dolomites is Marmolada, with its impressive 800m high and 3km wide south facing limestone wall. All of the routes on this face are long and serious, and unique to the Dolomites, may take longer than a day to complete. Hence it is wise to pack a bivouac bag. Unless you catch the expensive last cable car from the summit then the descent is down the north side of the mountain, which has the only glacier in the region! It is therefore recommended that in-step crampons and lightweight boots be worn.

The north face of Cima Grande is one of the great alpine north faces and is breathtakingly steep - a real big wall. At 450m &16-pitches long, and graded at UIAA V11- (UK E2 5c or French 6b) it is very sustained for long periods and therefore demands the prestige attached to it. However as with many of the routes in the Dolomites it is possible to aid across the difficult sections, which reduces this route to V1/A1 (UK E1 5B or French 6a).

The Dolomites - Logistics

The best time of the year to visit the Dolomites for rock climbing is the summer months of July through to September. However it is not possible to guarantee good weather during this time - after all this is still the Alps! During prolonged periods of bad weather it is possible to escape to the superb rock climbing area at Arco which is only a 2.5 hour drive away.

With regards to equipment it is sensible to bring duel ropes if you are going to attempt some of the longer routes. Though a lot of the routes are bolted it is advisable to bring a full rack of nuts and friends.

The nearest international airports are Venice and Verona in Italy or Munich and Salzburg to the north. As the Dolomites area is vast, it is advisable to hire a car in order to easily travel around the different areas.

Andrich - First ascent: A. Andrich e E. Faè 17/8/1934

Dolomites, Civetta, Torre Venezia, 2337m

난이도 : V+ / 남서벽 / 길이 300m

Elegant classic route which climbs the arête that divides the west face from the south. This is a pleasant and exposed route up good quality rock, at times excellent, which first climbs the large face, then the obvious beautiful featured corner. The belays are equipped with in-situ pro and the pitches have some pro on them too, nevertheless take a full set of trad gear and Kevlar threads. Well worth a repeat.

GETTING THEREFrom Agordo drive to Listolade, then continue up to Capanna Trieste (tel. 0437.660122) and park the car here.

ACCESSLeave the car and walk up to Rifugio Vazzoler (tel. 0437.660008) in circa one hour, then continue towards Rifugio Tissi. Walk past the unmistakable base of Torre Venezia to reach a large alpine meadow (Pian di Pelsa) festooned with boulders. Leave the main path here and take a small track to the right which rises up to the left of the trees. Once at the base of the rocks the path traverses beneath Punta Agordo to a gully which separates this peak from Torre Venezia. Walk up the scree gully to the top and then traverse right along the obvious ledge which crosses the entire wall. Tie in at circa halfway, close to some trees, then continue on for another 40m to reach the first belay with three pegs at the base of the black wall. DESCENTExit from the wall onto the scree ledge beneath the summit, walk left to the north face. A small path leads to a first red marker which signals the descent point. Descend a few meters to a small terrace, equipped with peg and ring. A few 20m and 40m abseils lead to a wide ledge. Follow this left at first, then scramble down a wide gully to another abseil. Exit from the gully on the right and take the small path from the base back to the refuge.

GEARThreads, quickdraws, full set of nuts and medium sized friends for the corner.

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Aspettando la vetta - First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Giammario Meneghin, 07/2004

Dolomites, Tofane, Primo Spigolo, 2650m / 난이도 6b / 남벽 / 450m

Airy, beautiful and not too difficult line up the first of the three aretes which give the Tofana di Rozes its hallmark profile. The route finished up the classic "Primo Spigolo", first ascended by A. Alverà and U. Pompanin in 1946. Despite being bolt protected run-outs are not uncommon...

GETTING THEREDrive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.

ACCESSApproach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts on the right-hand edge of the Primo Spigolo face, along the obvious rightwards slanting ramp. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.

DESCENTTraverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani.

GEARFull rack, two 60m ropes.

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Balbic - First ascent: L. Majoni &M. Alberti, 1994

Dolomites, Spalti di Col Becchei, Col Becchei / 7a, A1 / 남서벽 / 300m

This is one of the newest routes, with the bolts and pegs placed on lead. The hardest sections are to be found in the first half, where the route follows a line between the large corner (Los Angeles) and Thriller, avoiding the two obvious roofs. After the shared belay the route eases off for two beautiful pitches, before joining up with Los Angeles for the final pitch.

GETTING THEREFrom Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51. After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes). Park the car at the entrance to the park and continue on foot. Follow signs for Fanes, over several bridges and along the forest road. After a few bends the path straightens out and continues along the valley floor, past the Taé walls on the right, and then on to the Spalti di Col Becchei. The path forks at this point; go right over a small bridge onto the other side of the valley floor towards the Spalti. A cairn indicates a small path leading off rightwards through the wood steeply up to the rock face. To reach Illusione Ottica and Thriller scramble up the scree, traverse leftwards along an exposed section beneath a band of rock, and then return rightwards. The other routes are reached more easily by walking directly up to the base of the crag. Taé’s routes are reached by crossing the bridge and briefly following the road, to then ascend the gully on the right. Reach the pine trees and then scramble up the ramp rightwards to the base of the wall.

ACCESSStart at the bolt to the right of Thriller.

DESCENTAs for Illusione Ottica and Thriller.

GEARAlthough bolts and pegs protect the harder sections, bring a set of wires &friends for the easier pitches.

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Batajan - First ascent: Manuel Stuflesser & Norbert Weiss 07/2009

Dolomites, Sella, II Sella Tower, 2597m / VII+, 서벽, 325m

Batajan takes a line up the second Sella tower and offers fascinating and varied VI and VII grade climbing with an airy crux which leads through the great roofs on the 4th and 5th pitches.

GETTING THEREReach Passo Sella from either Val Gardena or Val di Fassa.

ACCESSFrom Passo Sella take the path that leads beneath the north faces of the Torri del Sella. Leave this and follow the obvious track up towards the gully that separates the II and III tower. The route starts at the lowest point of the II Sella Tower.

ROUTE

Start by following a series of cracks and slabs up compact rock to reach the obvious roofs which can be seen right from the outset and which are overcome with some aery and athletic climbing. After the roofs a traverse leads right to another crack system which leads up the West Face.

GEAR47 in-situ pegs and numerous threads. Take a set of camming devices.

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Brunsin - First ascent: A. Holzknecht e G. Demetz 1985

Dolomites, Sella, Torre delle Mésules Est, 2457m

This is the most popular outing on the wall, thanks to its superb line on excellent rock. It is easier than Geo and Plitschka, but the climbing is always sustained. Beware of old threads.

ACCESSStart to the left of Geo and Plitschka, right in the center of the wall. Follow the compact black slabs diagonally from right to left.

DESCENTFrom the summit walk leftwards (east) towards the Murfried towers and then follow a broken path down to the base.

GEARA set of wires, friends and plenty of kevlar threads.

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Cassin - First ascent: R. Cassin, V. Ratti, 1935

Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cima Ovest / 7a, N, 450m

A beautiful route, one of the classics in the Dolomites. Exposed and sustained climbing up to 7a, on fairly solid rock.

ACCESSFrom Rifugio Auronzo take path no.105 to Col di Mezzo and continue to the North Face. Follow the track across the scree to the base of the arête and start to the right, close to some scree ramps. DESCENTReach the ledge and traverse right onto the South Face. Descend for 20m to a col that faces Cima Grande. Descend left into a gully, first left, then right, to avoid the boulders in the middle. Continue down the gully to the scree slope between Cima Grande and Cima Ovest.

GEARThere is plenty of in-situ gear, take numerous quickdraws, slings, kevlar cords, nuts and some friends.

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Cassin - First ascent: R. Cassin, L. Pozzi, G. Vitali, 1934
Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cima Piccolissima / 7-, SE, 350m

The short overhanging yellow wall of the Cima Piccolissima is breached by the demanding Via Cassin. All loose holds on this stratified dolomite have been cleaned. The route faces SE and is therefore climbable before and after summer.

ACCESSWalk to the forcella Lavaredo and follow the small path leftwards to the base of the wall. Start beneath the obvious diagonal corner, reached by scrambling up the ledges.

DESCENTAbseil down using the abseil rings (do not use the pegs). The first abseil leads from the summit to a ledge: traverse right to a small terrace on the North West Face (this can otherwise be reached by traversing along the ledge prior to the last pitch before the easy final chimney). Two abseils lead to the saddle that separates the Piccolissima from the Punta di Frida. Five further abseils down the South East gully lead back down to the foot of the wall. Beware of loose stones.

GEARTake a full set of wires, friends, slings, kevlar threads and plenty of quickdraws.

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Classica - First ascent: A. Dimai, J.L. Heath, A. Verzi, 1901
Dolomites, Pomagagnon, Punta Fiames / 4, S, 400m

An easy and popular climb that winds its way up the sunny South Face, overlooking the Cortina valley. Do not underestimate the length of the route, nor the initial pedestal.

ACCESSFor the approach follow the description in the Getting there section of this chapter. DESCENTFrom the summit follow the path right along the North Face to the Pomagagnon saddle. Walk down (SE) the steep scree-filled gully to the foot of the wall.

GEARA set of wires, friends and kevlar threads. All belays have resined pegs.

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Dallago - First ascent: F. e A. Dallago, Costantini, Menardi, Michielli, Valle, 1970
Dolomites, Nuvolao, Gusela / 4-5, SW, 250m

An easy and accessible route up a series of ledges on solid rock with plenty of holds and threads. The route takes a line up the large pillar in the middle of the Southwest Face, from which the summit can easily be reached. The second crux pitch contains an airy traverse on a large yellow flake (pegs and friends).

ACCESSApproach the base of the Gusela from Passo Giau by following the path along the ridge and then continue leftwards to the Southwest Face. Walk up the scree onto the grassy pedestal and start beneath the grey crack (pegs) on the left-hand side of the pillar. Allow 20 minutes for the walk-in.

DESCENTFrom the summit follow the path to the plateau and keep right to reach the path no. 438, which leads down quickly to the pass.

GEARA set of wires, friends and plenty of kevlar threads.

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Demetz - First ascent: Gluck, Demetz 1935
Dolomites, Sella, II Torre del Sella, 2597m / V, NW, 250m

One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto the arête at about half-height and is graded 6 or AO. The line then follows a series of good but exposed corners and cracks to the summit. Given the orientation the route is often cold, even in summer, especially if you opt for an early start.

ACCESSFrom P. Sella take the path that leads beneath the north faces of the Torri del Sella. Leave this and follow the obvious track up to the start in the middle of the west face of the II Torre. Allow 20 minutes for the walk-in.

DESCENTFrom the summit descend (I and II) eastwards to reach the col between the II Torre and the arête that leads up from Piz Ciavazes. From here follow the path down easy stepped terain to meet up with the descent route from the Ist tower. Walk beneath the south face of the Ist tower and return to the pass. GEARA set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.

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Diedro Sud Ovest - First ascent: Consiglio, Dall’Oglio, Micarelli, 1954
Dolomites, Fanis, Cima del Lago / 4+, SW, 350m

An elegant and classic route of its grade. The lower section takes a rather uninteresting line up steps to the left of the corner, to the ledge at half height. From here traverse right and climb up the superb, large corner! The rock accepts all types of gear and is extremely solid, especially in the upper section. ACCESSApproach the Cima del Lago by walking from the Capanna Alpina up the no. 20 to the rifugio Scotoni and the small lake. Walk around this and up the scree to the wall. Start about 40 meters to the left of the large corner by traversing diagonally from right to left, onto a small ledge to the left of a gully. Allow at least an hour for the walk-in.

DESCENTDescent: walk northwards (cairn) for about 50 meters, then rightwards down a chimney and narrow gully (2+ scramble) to a terrace. From here descend to the forcella del Lago and follow the path down the steep south gully to the lake.

GEARGear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.

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Dülfer - First ascent: H. Dülfer, W. F. von Bermuth, 1913
Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cima Grande / 5+, W, 250m

The cold West Face hosts the via Dülfer, a direct and elegant line, somewhat less popular than the other routes. It is relatively short, considering that it is on the Cima Grande, and is solid UIAA 6 with some slightly harder moves on the second pitch. The upper chimney provides the backdrop to an almost obligatory photo of climbers silhouetted against the sky and shadowy walls.

ACCESSFrom the rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. From the top of the saddle climb up the pedestal at the base of the wall to the long chimney/corner. The route starts beneath a yellow crack.

DESCENTWalk right along the ledge to the normal route and then follow the instructions as for via Hasse. GEARSince this climbs the corner take plenty of wires and friends.

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Il vecchio leone e la giovane fifona - First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Natashia Alexander 07/2006
Dolomites, Tofane, Primo Spigolo, 2650m / 6c, S, 300m

Another fun and nice da Pozzo route up the Primo Spigolo of the Tofana di Rozes. First ascended together with Natasha Alexander in July 2006, from the large ledge at circa 100-150m beneath the summit it shares the final two pitches with "Aspettando la vetta" before continuing up with the classic 1946 "Primo Spigolo." A descent is possible from this large ledge using two 60m ropes and abseiling to a belay circa 2m to the right of the terrace which is used by Via Alverà-Pompanin. The max 7a, obligatory 6b climbing is up excellent quality rock: not to be missed!

ACCESSApproach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts to the left of "Aspettando la vetta" on the obvious rightwards slanting ramp. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.

GEARFull rack, two 60m ropes.

NOTESDespite being bolt protected run-outs are not uncommon...

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La storia è finita - First ascent: M. Da Pozzo, M. Alberti, S.Piccoliori, 2002
Dolomites, Tofane, Tofana di Mezzo / 7a, E, 380m

A modern route to the right of Via degli Scoiattoli, slightly easier than nearby Via Falcone e Borsellino. Bolted on lead, it is well worth repeating thanks to its excellent quality rock and climbing.

ACCESSTake the cable car from Cortina to Ra Valles and then walk along the Bus di Tofana piste. Head right towards the base of the wall. D

ESCENTFrom the top of the pillar traverse left along a series of ledges to a gully. Scramble up this to reach the ridge and via ferrata. Descend to the Bus di Tofana arch and continue down to Ra Valles.

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Oasi - First ascent: L. Baumgartner e T. Panholzer
Dolomites, Spalti di Col Becchei, Col Becchei / 6a, SW, 350m

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches are the same as for Super Ponzio. At the second belay move off diagonally rightwards.

ACCESSThe start and first two pitches are the same as for Super Ponzio. At the second belay move off diagonally rightwards.

DESCENTAbseil as for the other routes, or alternatively walk westwards directly down into the Val di Fanes. GEARA set of wires and friends, pegs and a hammer.

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Paolo Amedeo - First ascent: Mario Dibona, Armando Nascé 09/2001.
Dolomites, Croda da Lago, Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella / 5, 350m

A modern route which, given it’s grade, good protection and excellent rock, is destined to become a classic. The route takes trad pro but the belays were bolted on lead and the pitches contain numerous pegs, nevertheless take a selection of nuts, threads and slings.

GETTING THEREPasso Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino.

ACCESSDrive towards Passo Giau from Cortina and park the car on the left next to the sign for "Muraglia di Giau". Continue on foot towards the tower, follwoing tree markers (path no. 436 for Forcella Giau). Allow 35 mins for the walk-in.

DESCENTDescend easily down the gully indicated in the drawing. 15 mins to the base of the routes GEARThe route is equipped with some in-situ gear, nevertheless take some small and mid-sized camming devices, a selection of nuts, threads and slings.

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Pilastro di Mezzo - First ascent: Reinhold & Günther Messner
Dolomites, Sass de la Crusc, Sass de la Crusc, 2825m

DIFFICULTY 8 (7 Mariacher variation) OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY 6 A1 LENGTH 500m

Nice route up solid rock, especially in the upper section. With in-situ gear throughout the entire route, the Messner was long considered one of the hardest routes in the Dolomites. Heinz Mariacher repeated the route adding an easier variation on the hardest pitch.

GETTING THERETake the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes.

ACCESSFrom Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. Reach the base of the Pilastro di Mezzo and then turn off left through meadows and over stepped terrain to the start of the route.

DESCENTFrom the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours).

GEARNormal alpine rack.

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Roberta + diedro Buhl - First ascent: R. Platter &Felicetti + H. Buhl
Dolomites, Sella, Piz Ciavazes / 6a+, S, 250m

Beautiful combination that starts up the first half of Roberta 89 to then continue along Via Buhl. The route follows a logical line up featured slab to a large corner located in the middle of the Piz Ciavazes face. All belays are bolted and the route is well-equipped throughout with in-situ pegs.

GETTING THEREFrom Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. ACCESSFrom the car park follow a small path up to the wall. The route starts a few meters left of Via Micheluzzi, in the center of the face, roughly in line with the obvious large roof at about 50m (route name written at the base).

DESCENTReach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily.

GEARA set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.

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Schubert - First ascent: P. Schubert &K. H. Matthies 1967
Dolomites, Sella, Piz Ciavazes / 6-, N, 200m

A classic route, one of the most popular on this wall, that takes a long line along the arête to the right of the large chimney that splits the Piz Ciavazes face in half. The belays are bolted and the route is well-equipped throughout with in-situ pegs.

GETTING THEREFrom Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. ACCESSFrom the car park follow a small path up to the wall. Head towards the obvious large chimney: the route starts up a small yellow corner capped by a roof about 20m to the left.

DESCENTReach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards Passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily.

GEARA set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.

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Schwalbenschwanz - First ascent: L. Rieser, R. Schiestl in 1978
Dolomites, Marmolada, Marmolada d'Ombretta, 3247m / 6, S, 750m - 19피치

The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs. Like its neighbour it follows an intelligent and fun line of ascent, weaving its way up the line of least resistance. The lower section is famous for the distinctive hole that enables climbers to cross the roofs beneath the half-height ledge, while the upper section weaves its way to the left and right of the long black streak. Beautiful face climbing leads to the long inclined chimney to the right of the pillar and the black water streak. The Schwalbenschwanz is without a doubt one of the most beautiful and enjoyable outings on the entire south face!

GETTING THERETake the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.

ACCESSFrom Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. The start of the route is located beneath the slanting small gully (circa 1 hour from Rif. Falier).

DESCENTTwo 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.

GEARTwo 50 m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.

NOTESThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.

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Sognando aurora - First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Marcello Menardi 09/2005: 1st free ascent Massimo Da Pozzo 06/2006
Dolomites, Tofane, Tofana di Rozes, 2650m / 7b+, S, 600m

Beautiful, airy line up Tofana's south facing Pilastro di Rozes. It was first ascended from the ground-up over a three-day period in September 2005 by Massimo Da Pozzo and Marcello Menardi and subsequently freed by Massimo Da Pozzo in June 2006. "Sognando l'aurora" takes a superb line via sustained climbing through one of the legendary Dolomite faces, climbing to the right of Costantini-Apollonio and to the left of Paolo VI to reach the top of the pillar. This is possibly one of the best Massimo da Pozzo creations on the Tofane. The yellowish-red rock above the first ledge is superb and bar a few pitches which will be cleaned in time the rock quality on the entire 600m route is very good. Sognando aurora is destined to become one of the classic hard outings on this face.

ACCESSApproach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts inbetween Costantini - Apollonio and via Paolo VI. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.

GEARThe route is bolt and peg protected. Take two 60m ropes, a set of friends and a full rack of wires.

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Spigolo del Velo - First ascent: Gunther Langes &Erwin Merlet 1920
Dolomites, Pale di San Martino, Cima della Madonna / 4+/5, NW, 430m

A splendid historic route, one of the best in the Dolomites. Despite numerous repeats the rock is still excellent with plenty of threads.

GETTING THERETake the SS50 (Fiera di Primiero - Passo Rolle) and turn off onto the track which leads up to Malga Zivertaghe 1375m (3 km). Continue on foot along path No. 713 to Rifugio Del Velo (2.30 hours). ACCESSFrom Rif. Del Velo take a path downwards to the Ferrate del Velo. Ascend up the ferrata for circa 120m to the deep fissures (circa 20 minutes from the refuge). Scramble up the right (grade II) towards the arête, past a small spur on the right. After circa 150m the terrain steepens: belay on the large thread next to a small ledge.

DESCENTFrom the summit continue along the crest towards Sass Màor to a deep chimney (Camino Winkler). Beyond this two red arrows make the descent northwards. Bridge across the gap and scramble on for circa 10 meters (grade II+) to then reach a small terrace and the obvious abseil ring bolt. Two 20m abseils lead to easy scrambling terrain which, in turn, leads to a third abseil ring. Abseil for 40m to the scree slopes of the col between Sass Màor and Cima della Madonna, which is reached via a small chimney on the right (facing the valley). From the col descend the scree gully east down a series of rocky bands. Keep right at the first fork, then keep left at the second (scrambles Grade I and II, plus a series of 15m abseils down fixed ring bolts) to reach the final 20m abseil which leads down to the path and back to the refuge.

GEARTwo 55m ropes, full mountaineering gear, quickdraws, kevlar threads, slings.

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Spitagoras - First ascent: T. Obojes, O. Zingerle, 1997
Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Val Rienza / 5+(6a), NW, 400m

This new bolt route is sustained but never particularly difficult. These two characteristics, combined with its setting and excellent rock, ensure that Spitagoras will become very popular.

ACCESSApproach by taking the path no. 102 to the rifugio Locatelli. The wall, dominated by the obvious arête, comes into view after about an hour. Follow a path along the foot of the wall for about 50 meters to the first bolts.

DESCENTWalk leftwards (east) to a small barn, from where a path leads back down into the valley. GEARAlthough bolts protected, take a set of wires and some friend for the easier pitches.

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Via Spirit - First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Danilo Serafini 09/2003
Dolomites, Marmolada, Cima Orientale - Cime d'Auta, 2624m / 7c, S, 400m

Fantastic route first ascended by Massimo Da Pozzo and Danilo Serafini in September 2003. Magnificent climbing on splendid featured limestone with plenty of small pockets and small crimps, very similar to the nearby South Face of the Marmolada. The route is demanding (7b obligatory) and follows a series of slabs up the center of the S Face. Thanks to the solid rock and the beauty of the actual climbing, Spirit is comparable to the most famous routes in the Dolomites and the Rätikon.

ACCESSTake the SS346 from Cencenighe Agordino towards Falcade, at the fork at Caviola turn right following signs for Colmean. Park the car in the car park at the end of the tarmacked road and continue on foot along path S.689 (1274m). Walk past the Baita dei Cacciatori hut and continue on to the next hut dedicated to Papa Giovanni Paolo I. A small path continues upwards from here and at a certain point it splits into two: left leads to the Ferrata Paolin Piccolin while right leads to col De Negher. Continue right and leave the path after a few hundred meters to ascend a gully which leads quickly to the base of the wall and the start of the route. (1hour and 20 minutes).

DESCENTFrom the final equipped belay scramble up to a kairn (grade II), then make a 20m abseil to reach a ledge. Ascend this to a path which leads to the mountain summit or back down to the base.

GEAR10 quickdraws, two 60m ropes

NOTESSplendid featured limestone, very similar to the South Face of the Marmolada. Demanding route, entirely bolt protected.

Via Zoe - First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Bruno Sartorelli, Ivan Romanin, Danilo Serafini, summer 2009
Dolomites, Croda da Lago, Lastoni di Formin / 7a, NW, 300m

New "modern" route first ascended by untiring Massimo Da Pozzo on the Lastoni di Formin. Due to the poor weather conditions the route was ascended in three pushes with three different partners, namely Romanin Ivan, Serafini Danilo and Bruno Sartorelli.The eight pitches climb up solid rock and the crux pitches are pure stamina testpieces. The route is dedicated to Massimo's daughter Zoe and starts a few meters to the right of his other creation, Spiderman.

GETTING THEREPasso Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino.

ACCESSApproach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the forest the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to reach the base of the wall. Allow about an hour for the walk-in. ROUTEP1: 6b - 35mP2: 7b - 50mP3: 6b - 35mP4: III - 15mP5: 7b - 35mP6: 7a - 40mP7: 6b - 50mP8: 7a - 40m

DESCENTEither abseil down the route or reach the Formin col on foot from Croda da Lago then follow the path south and traverse right beneath the walls to Forcella Giau to join up with the access path.

GEARThe route is protected by bolts byt a set of mid-size camming devices may be found useful.

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Vinatzer - First ascent: G. Vinatzer &V. Peristi, 1935
Dolomites, Sella, III Torre del Sella, 2688m / V+, W, 360m

Classic route, one of the most popular in the Dolomites. It follows a line of thin cracks up the west face of the third Torri del Sella. The crux leads to a roof above the large ledge at half-height and is both fingery and technical; the original VI grade may seem somewhat undergraded. All in all a highly satisfying route. ACCESSFrom P. Sella take the path that leads beneath the north faces of the Torri del Sella. Leave this and follow the obvious track up towards the gully that separates the II and III tower. The route starts close to the center of the wall. Allow 20 minutes for the walk-in.

DESCENTDescend down the N. Face by abseiling off a cemented peg (25/30m). Scramble down easy ground (II) to reach the diagonal ledge. Follow this to the scree gully beneath the II and III tower. Follow this to the final step: abseil over this (1x40m or 2x20m) to reach the base of the wall.

GEARA set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.

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Vinatzer + exit Messner direct - First ascent: G.B. Vinatzer, E. Castiglioni, 1936; Diretta Messner: R. Messner, 1969
Dolomites, Marmolada, Marmolada Punta Rocca, 3309m / 6+/A1, S, 800m (28피치)

This masterpiece, first climbed by Vinatzer in 1936, is one of the most classic and popular outings on the wall, and nowadays the link up with the Direct Messner route in the upper section is definitely recommended. The first part of the Vinatzer follows the obvious diagonal weakness that splits the south face of Punta Rocca to the terrace at half-height. The difficulties remain much the same throughout this first section, as the route initially climbs past the small overhangs, then a series of corners and then, via rough eroded rock, to the chimneys (often wet) that lead to the half-height ledge. Walk right (east) along the comfortable terrace to reach the Messner Direct finish. Twelve pitches of demanding and beautiful climbing up compact grey slabs lead first to the crest and then, following this SE, to the summit of Punta Rocca.

GETTING THERETake the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit at Ora after Bolzano. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. n. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080 m.), nestled beneath the South face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016 located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.

ACCESSFrom Rif. Falier follow path no. 610 towards Passo d'Ombretta. Leave the path on a flat section and head up to base of the wall. Now traverse west to the chimney and the start of the route (1.00 hr from Rif. Falier).

DESCENTReturn using the cable car back to Malga Ciapela, or descend the glacier along the normal route to Rif. Pian dei Fiacconi, and from her to Passo Fedaia.

GEARTwo 50 m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.

NOTESThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.

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Don Quixote - First ascent: Heinz Mariacher, Reinhard Schiestl 1979 돈 키호테
Dolomites, Marmolada, Marmolada d'Ombretta, 3247m / 6, S, 750m - 20P

Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts up a series of streaks, easy steps and grey slabs first leftwards than rightwards, to then continue up a series of fantastically compact limestone. After the ledge at mid-height the route becomes even more interesting, to finish up some incomparably beautiful grey slabs.

DESCENTTwo 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.

GEARTwo 50m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.

NOTESThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.

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Schwalbenschwanz - First ascent: L. Rieser, R. Schiestl in 1978
Dolomites, Marmolada, Marmolada d'Ombretta, 3247m / 6, S, 750m - 19P-

DESCENTTwo 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.

GEARTwo 50 m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.

NOTESThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.

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Sognando aurora - First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Marcello Menardi 09/2005: 1st free ascent Massimo Da Pozzo 06/2006
Dolomites, Tofane, Tofana di Rozes, 2650m / 7a, S, 600m

GEARThe route is bolt and peg protected. Take two 60m ropes, a set of friends and a full rack of wires.

트레킹 루트

Lago di Braies - Croda del Becco
Dolomites, Dolomiti Braies, Croda del Becco, 2327 m

1일 - 4시간 / 2일 - 4시간

This beautiful and interesting walk coincides with the start of the classic Dolomite Alta Via nr. 1 traverse from the Lago di Braies to Belluno and crosses through one of the largest natural parks in the South Tyrol, the uncontaminated Fanes - Sénes ? Braies area. The itinerary starts and finishes at beautiful Lake Braies and follows a long, varied and simple round-trek. This can be carried out by spending a night at Rifugio Biella, the highest point reached on this outing, located at the foot of Croda del Becco. An early morning start after a night spent in the mountain hut leads down to the crytal clear waters, which constantly reflect the towering walls high above. The mountain environment in the upper section of the walk is arid and scree, typical of the Dolomite plateaus, while lower down near the Braies basin it transforms into luscious green forests. Weather conditions permitting, expert walkers can reach the summit of Croda del Becco via the classic line used by the first ascentionists. A fixed cable now protects the most exposed section. The panorama from the summit is priceless for those who opt for this alternative.

GETTING THEREFrom Cortina d?Ampezzo take the highway SS 51 to Dobbiaco. Continue left towards Brunico, and then follow signs for Lago di Braies.

ROUTEDay 1 From Lago di Bràies (1489 m) walk along the road to the southern tip of the lake to then continue along a mule path (signposted Nr. 1) to climb up the basin. Croda del Becco, to the west, dominates this ascent. At the top walk through two large rocks to enter into the narrow valley called ?Buco del Giovo? (2034m, 2 hours). The itinerary continues along path no. 1 and offers a glimpse onto the small lake Giovo down below (2026m), before reaching a semicircular wall. Continue past some rocky steps and reach the so-called ?Forno?, a narrow gully that runs between Pizzo Forno and Monte Muro. Follow this past large boulders and then zigzag upwards to the col Forcella Sora Forno (2388 m, 1.45 hours from Buco del Giovo; 3.45 hours from the start). Continue down to reach Rifugio Biella in about a quarter of an hour, and settle in for the night (2327m, 4 hours from the start). Day 2 From Rifugio Biella descend south-west, following path No. 6 to where a path leads off right at about 2260m. Follow this west beneath the western flank of the Croda del Becco. The path continues along the northern tip of Alpe di Sénes to reach the rocky path No. 23 at 2247m. this leads north to Forcella Riodalato (2331m, circa 1.30 hours from the Rifugio Biella). After the col the path descends rapidly down Valle Riodalato, steeply at first down a series of zigzags beneath the rocky walls, then straight through the wide Cadin di Sénnes valley which is overlooked by the Cadin di Sénes and the Col de Ricegon. Reach an opening and cross the river close to the characteristic slabby Punte Riodalato outcrops, before descending into Valle Riodalato. The path leads through the thick forest on the right hand side of the river down to a beautiful hut at Alpe Foresta (1590m). After a short break continue along path No. 19 easily down to Lago di Braies (1489 m, 2 - 2.30 hours circa from Forcella Riodalato; 3,30 - 4 hours circa from Rifugio Biella).

GEARNormal walking gear

DIFFICULTIESOuting with some sections suitable for experts only.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY1:25.000, Tabacco, Foglio 31 ?Dolomiti di Bràies ? Marebbe?; 1:25.000, Kompass, Foglio 637 ?Alta Pusteria?.

(EDTT) Eastern Dolomites Trekking Tour (6 days hut to hut)

The eastern Dolomites are very rough and rugged and the landscape varies by the hour. In a labyrinth of peaks you’ll encounter huge rock faces, steep passes and wide alpine meadows. This trek takes us through some of the most complex Dolomites’ groups. We start with the classical crossing of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo to continue south towards mountains that are surely more difficult to approach. In various segments of this trek we’ll find ourselves on very steep and exposed pathways partially equipped with steel ladders and ropes some of which were built by soldiers during WW1. This trek requires you to have a very good level of physical fitness and specific training. Don’t despare though – this is a piece of cake compared to what Italian and Austrian WW1 soldiers had to endure! Remember: they did it all carrying on average 40 lbs of ammunitions – often under enemy’s fire.

Day 1Arriving in Bolzano you’ll be welcomed by your mountain guide who will accompany you to your chosen hotel. There we’ll have a short briefing to detail every single day of your chosen program. In the evening we’ll have dinner downtown in one of the historical restaurants of the city.

Day 2With the train and a short bus trip we’ll arrive at a parking lot to access the Innerfeld valley where our trek starts. Through this valley we hike up to the great plateau to the north of the Tre cime di Lavaredo and crossing it completely we’ll arrive at Rifugio/hut Locatelli (2405 m). Picture-perfect views of astonishing panoramas guaranteed!!! (4 hours)

Day 3From Rifugio/hut Locatelli we trace our steps back to the plateau under Tre Cime di Lavaredo to cross them at Forcella/pass di Mezzo. We’ll descend on the opposite side to Rifugio/hut Auronzo and head –direction south- towards Cadini di Misurina group. We follow the “super-exposed” protected trail Bonacossa (in most guidebooks graded as easy VF) to Rifugio/hut Fonda Savio (2367 m) (5 hours).

Day 4From our hut we continue on the Bonacossa’s trail to complete the crossing of the Cadini di Misurina group. We descend to Ansiè valley and immediately hike our trail up on the opposite side in the interior sector of Sorapis’ group to Rifugio/hut Vandelli (1828 m) (6 hours)

Day 5From our hut we start the difficult crossing of the Sorapis’ group following the protected trail Berti and trough a labyrinth of rock faces to Rifugio/hut San Marco (1823 m) (takes 5 to 7 hours).

Day 6From Rifugio/hut San Marco to we head down to Boite valley, south of Cortina and head back up following the bizzare contours of the towers of the Croda da Lago group to reach Rifugio/hut Palmieri (2402 m) where we’ll overnight. (7 hours)

Day 7This is a quiet day. From Rifugio/hut Palmieri to the Cinque Torri group and Rifugio/hut: a panoramic crossing through WW1 trenches awaits us. (4 hours) From here with gondolas/cable ways/rope ways to Cortina and by bus back to Bolzano. In the evening we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner at Hopfen, one of the historical restaurant in Bolzano which has home-baked bread and its own micro-brewery. Awesome!

(CDTT) Central Dolomites Trekking Tour (6 days hut to hut)

This trek is a complete crossing of the central Dolomites, it’s not particularly difficult but it requires you to have a good level of physical fitness and training. Hiking pathways and crossing through mountain passes you’ll be totally surrounded by unforgettable views and live every day in touch with local traditions while staying in pictoresque alpine huts/rifugios. This is a 6 days hike that could take one day more or one less following your desire for a softer vs. extreme adventure.

Day 1Arriving in Bolzano you’ll be welcomed by your mountain guide who will accompany you to your chosen hotel. Sipping a cup of marvellous Italian espresso we’ll have a briefing to detail every single day of your chosen program.

Day 2Leaving from your hotel we stroll through the city centre to take the bus to Obereggen (half hour trip). From here we go up to Rifugio/hut Torre di Pisa (2671 m) where we’ll stay overnight. It takes a 3 hours trek or 1h45’ with cableways/gondolas to reach the hut. You can choose…

Day 310 m from the hut we cross the top of the crest entering the big basin of Gruppo del Latemar. We head north in order to catch the pathway that follows the basin’s perimeter and then head down to Passo Costalunga. From here we’ll ascend on the opposite side to Rifugio/hut Roda di Vael (2280 m) in Catinaccio/Rosengarten (7 h).

Day 4We head straight up to the steep Passo delle Zigolade (2579 m) and descend on the opposite side where we hike along the base of the unique rock face of Catinaccio/Rosengarten until we reach Rifugio/hut Vajolet. After visiting this historical rifugio/hut we first head up to Passo Principe (2599 m) and next -close by- to Passo d’Antermoja (2770 m) (7 h)

Day 5Today we abandon the group of Catinaccio to follow the perimeter of the group of Sassolungo on the panoramic pathway Friedrich August Weg to reach Passo Sella (2813 m). We overnight at rifugio/hut Valentini or rifugio Friedrich August. (5 h)

Day 6We cross the wide Passo Sella and enter one of the most impressing valleys in the Dolomites Val Lasties. We hike it all to have access to the great plateau of gruppo del Sella – all across and up to its highest peak Piz Boè (3152 m) where we find la Capanna/hut Fassa where we’ll be spending our last night. (6 h)

Day 7We get up REALLY early to take some awesome pictures of the truly unforgettable “bird-eye” view of the Dolomites at dawn. Later we start our descent towards Forcella Pordoi and across it to Passo Pordoi (2 h). From here a bus ride takes us back to Bolzano and your hotel. In the evening we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner at Hopfen, one of the historical restaurant in Bolzano which has home-baked bread and its own micro-brewery. Awesome!

(NDTT) Northern Dolomites Trekking Tour (4 days hut to hut)

This trek covers the north sector of the Dolomites with its most famous groups: Odle, Fanis, Counturines, Tofane. We leave from Bressanone and in a four-days trek from west to east we arrive in Cortina. We’ll overnight in unique places like the sanctuary of Sas dl Crusc and the rifugio/hut on the Lagazuoi’s peak with its breath-taking view. This tour is well suited also for less-trained people, apart from Day 1, every other day the hiking program can be shortened using public transportation. During the whole trek we’ll be touched by ancient ladins traditions.

Day 1 -

Arriving in Bolzano you’ll be welcomed by your mountain guide who will accompany you to your chosen hotel. There we’ll have a short briefing to detail every single day of your chosen program. In the evening we’ll have dinner downtown in one of the historical restaurants of the city.

Day 2 -

We catch the train from Bolzano to Bressanone arriving in more or less 30min. From here we take the rope-ways heading to Plose at 2050 m. We cross all of the Plose’s alpine meadows heading to the peak of Sas da Putia. A steep pathway takes us to high saddle of Putia and in short time we reach Rifugio/hut Genova (2297 m). (6 hours)

Day 3 -

From Rifugio/hut Genova we cross over to the opposite side descending to Longiarù valley, in a short time we get to Juel pass after which we descend to Pedraces in Badia valley. After a little break we continue to the enchanting sanctuary Sas dl Crusc (2045 m) where we’ll overnight in the adjacent Ospizio/hospice (8 hours, shortened to 6 if you want to use cable-ways).

Day 4 -

Today we hike along the base perimeter of the imposing rock faces of Fanis and Counturines to the little village of S. Cassiano and further to begin a long but moderately steep hike to Lagazuoi peak and rifugio/hut where we’ll stay overnight.(2762 m). (8 hours, shortened to 4 if you want to use cable-ways).

Day 5 -

We get up REALLY early to take some awesome pictures of the truly unforgettable “bird-eye” view of the Dolomites at dawn. After breakfast we start our descent crossing the internal portion of Tofane’s group. We’ll encounter rests of WW1 Austrian and Italian trenches and we’ll be hiking all along the base perimeter of the great rock face of Tofana di Rozes to head down to Cortina. After a visit to this world-famous VIPs town we head back to Bolzano by bus and train (5 hours, shortened to 3 if you want to use cable-ways/public transportation). If you would like to end your tour in Cortina, your mountain guide can arrange for your luggage to be taken from your hotel in Bolzano to your new hotel in Cortina at an extra cost of € 150. In the evening we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner at Hopfen, one of the historical restaurants in Bolzano which has home-baked bread and its own micro-brewery. Awesome!

(SDTT) Southern Dolomites Trekking Tour (4 days hut to hut)

is the wildest sector of this wide mountain territory. Surely it’s because of its rough morphology and the consequent scarse touristic impact on the area. This trek is a north to south crossing on sometimes difficult, exposed pathways in amazing scenery. I recommend this trek as a first Dolomites’ experience and also for Dolomites’ aficionados who want to discover the “dark” side of this mountain group.

Day 1 -

Arriving in Bolzano you’ll be welcomed by your mountain guide who will accompany you to your chosen hotel. There we’ll have a short briefing to detail every single day of your chosen programme. In the evening we’ll have dinner downtown in one of the historical restaurants of the city.

Day 2 -

We leave from Bolzano by car and on 1.5 hrs we reach Rolle pass where our our adventure starts! We ascend briefly to Costazza pass (2170 m) and trek along the astonishinig north walls of Pale di San Martino to ascend again to Rifugio Mulaz (2571 m). (3 hrs).

Day 3 -

We leave from Rifugio/hut Mulaz heading to the steep Passo delle Farangole pass (short sector of equipped/protected trail) descending on the opposite side where we’ll admire the wide plateau of Pale di San Martino. We cross delle Comelle valley and reach Rifugio/hut Rosetta (2581 m). (5 hrs).

Day 4 -

We spend the whole day at “high altitude” crossing the long plateau of Pale di San Martino which culminates with a steep ascent to of Cima della Fradusta peak (2939 m) and the consequent descent ) in Canali valley to Rifugio/hut Treviso (1631 m). (6 hrs)

Day 5 -

Leaving the pictoresque rifugio/hut Treviso we ascend to Forcella d’Otro and descend to the opposite side where on a long pathway we’ll coast the wild southern rock faces/walls of Pale di San Martino to reach Cereda pass (1350 m) (7 hrs). From here we return by bus to Rolle pass where we left our car and head back to Bolzano. In the evening we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner at Hopfen, one of the historical restaurants in Bolzano which has home-baked bread and its own micro-brewery. Awesome!

(CDFT) Central Dolomites Via Ferrata Tour (6 days hut to hut)

This program taking you from hut to hut puts together most of the Dolomites’ VFs (fixed ropeways). You might prefer a shorter program but If you want to fully experience the VFs climb you cannot miss this opportunity. Crossing the central mountain groups of the Dolomites you’ll be totally surrounded by unforgettable views and live every day in touch with perfectly vertical, great rock masses, with exceptionally varied shapes

The day before Arriving in Bolzano you’ll be welcomed by your mountain guidewho will accompany you to your chosen hotel. Sipping a cup of marvellous Italian espresso we’ll have a briefing to detail every single day of your chosen program.

Day 1Leaving from your hotel we stroll through the city centre to take the bus to Obereggen (half hour trip). From here we go up to Rifugio/hut Torre di Pisa (2671 m) where we’ll stay overnight. It takes a 3 hours trek or 1h45’ with cableways/gondolas to reach the hut. You can choose…

Day 210 m from the hut we cross the top of the crest entering the big basin of Gruppo del Latemar. We go through it heading north till the beginning of VF dei Campanili – we’ll be climbing all of her towers and then head down to Passo Costalunga. From here we’ll ascend to Rifugio/hut Roda di Vael (2280 m) in Catinaccio/Rosengarten (7 h).

Day 3Today we climb at first VF del Masarè and then VF della Roda di Vaèl which allows us to descend to Passo del Vajolon and from here to the opposite side of the mountain. A panoramic trail (5 h) will lead us to Rifugio/hut Fronza alle Coronelle (2339 m).

Day 4Directly from the hut we ascend the historical VF del Passo Santner with its we astonishing view over well – known Torri del Vajolet. We descend (5 h) along the Gartl (a pictoresque valley - high in the Dolomites) to Rifugio/hut Vajolet heading up to Rifugio Passo Principe (2599 m).

Day 5Let’ s have some relax today! Just outside the hut we start with VF d’ Antermoia that leads us to the highest peak of tha group, the Catinaccio d’ Antermoia (3002 m). After that we descend the opposite side of the mountain to valley of Antermoia till Rifugio/hut Antermoia (4h).

Day 6

Today, our last day, we experience a long and panoramic crossing, climbing VF Laurenzi al Molignon, hiking to Rifugio/hut Alpe di Tires to the green pastures in Alpi di siusi. The widest plateu in the Dolomites. (6h). From here in just 1 hour bus ride we are back in Bolzano at your hotel. In the evening we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner at Hopfen, one of the historical restaurant in Bolzano which has home-baked bread and its own micro-brewery. Awesome!

(VFBB) The "Via delle Bocchette del Brenta" tour (4 days hut to hut)

We are going to explore the Brenta group in the Eastern Dolomites, following its main peaks through its VFs = fixed ropeways. The following proposal is about a 4 days journey from hut to hut during which we are going to discover every single nook and cranny of this group.

The day beforeArriving in Bolzano you’ll be welcomed by your mountain guidewho will accompany you to your chosen hotel. Sipping a cup of marvellous Italian espresso we’ll have a briefing to detail every single day of your chosen program.

Day 1Early morning start by car with your guide. In two hours we arrive at Passo Campo Carlo Magno where our adventure begins. At first we use the Grostè cableway/gondola and the we’ll climb the whole VF Benini arriving then at Rifugio/hut Tuckett.

Day 2Today we start by climbing the Northern segment of Via delle Bocchette till Cima/peak Brenta (3151 m) after which we’ll descend to Rifugio/hut Alimonta where we’ll be surrounded by marvellous peaks..

Day 3We tackle the central part of Via delle Bocchette, the true heart of this tour. Climbing this VF we’ll be crossing dizzy ledges to the feet of the renowned Campanil Basso until we reach Rifugio/hut Tosa. If there are good and stable weather conditions and our group is well trained and in top physical form we can combine Day 2 and Day 3 into one.

Day 4The last day we climb VF del Sentiero Brentari to Cima/peak Garbari (3018 m) and then the Southern segment of Via delle Bocchette till Rifugio/hut 12 apostoli. From here we descend to Madonna di Campiglio. By bus or taxi we go back to Passo di Campo Carlo Magno, where we left the car the first day. End of the tour and transfer to Bolzano with your mountain guide or optional stay in Madonna di Campiglio.

(DNFT) Dolomites nomadic Via Ferrata Tour (base camp in Bolzano)

Via Ferrate are a particular tradition in the Dolomites born out of a military need during the World War One. Today they are a great opportunity for all to live a wall experience. Every trekker can face a via ferrata if accompanied by a mountain guide. We don’t only lead you but also supply the whole necessary equipment proposing this programme, which you can modify as you wish.

Day 1Arrive in Bolzano welcomed by a mountain guide. Short organizing meeting about the week programme.

Day 2Via Ferrata “Roda di Vaèl” (Catinaccio group) is the best via ferrata to enter this new world of experience.

Day 3Via Ferrata “Tridentina” (Sella group). It’s the most classical and spectacular ferrata in the Dolomites. You can’t go home without doing it!

Day 4Independently, but with all necessary information you’ll take the bike and visit in complete relax the two beautiful castles near Bolzano. Runkelstein Castle: a rare example of a medieval manor with the most valuable chivalrous frescoes. Firmian Castle: the biggest castle in Alto Adige; today is the seat of the Messner Mountain Museum.

Day 5Via ferrata “Punta Penia” (Marmolada). We ascent the highest summit in the Dolomites along a historical ferrata of the World War One and descent along the glacier.

Day 6Independently, but with all necessary information you’ll visit a nearby town Merano but most of all you’ll relax in its pharaonic spa. It’s the biggest thermal complex in Europe with 17 swimming pools and saunas. It occupies the whole quarter. You have to visit it absolutely!

Day 7Shopping or visit of Bolzano. Departure.

Mountain guide welcomes you and accompanies you during the days dedicated to the ferrata ascents and he supports you during the other days as well. During the whole period of stay he is your contact person for any requirement. The whole mountain technical equipment is supplied by the Mountain Guide and it’s included in price (helm, harness, slings and karabiners, crapons and ice axle).

치베타

Monte Civetta stands in the first line of the wildest Dolomites mountains - mainly because of it's huge north west face that is a symbol of the Dolomites and an eyecatcher in the Agordino valley.Less impressive and less known is the east side of the mountain looking down into the Zoldo valley. But this is the side for the normal climbers. There is a little terrace at about 2900 m. Here Rifugio Torrani is situated so you have the oppurtunity to sleep high at the mountain.Monte Civetta is the climax of a long ridge that carries several minor summits: SW of Monte Civetta is Piccolo Civetta; NE are Punta Tissi (2992 m) and Punta Civetta (2920 m).Civetta is also the climax of Civetta mountain group theat exeeds between the pass roads over Forcella Staulanza and Passo Duran. There are some more interesting mountains and endless climbing possibilities - so have a look at the Civetta group page.

노멀루트 Three routes can be done by normal climbers:- Sentiero Tivan: this is the route of the first ascent. Marked route with some cables and some easy scrambling, but definetely no hiking! Danger of rockfall. Nowerdays this route is mostly used for the descent.- Via ferrata Alleghesi: This is the most popular route - a cable route, not extreme but not easy. It follows a pillar to the side-summit of Punta Civetta (2920 m), then along the main ridge to the main summit. Easier parts of the pillar (UIAA II) are not fixed. Sometimes crowded- Via ferrata Tissi: this is a difficult ferrata that leads from the south to the plateau with Rifugio Torrani. It concentrates on a 300 m high, almost upright step. Some danger of rockfall. All routes require good - dry - conditions and stable weather. In any case one should avoid getting into a thunderstorm

치베타 북, 서벽

Civetta north west face is probably the biggest rock face of the Dolomites, with a maximum height of 1200 m and a length of 3 km. The first direct ascent was done by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder in 1925. This is nowerdays considered as the first climb in the entire alps in UIAA grade VI.In the 1930ies some other routes in grade VI here and on other summits of Civetta group were opened, so climber and author Domenico Rudatis called the area as "kingdom of the 6th grade". Developping did not stop decades ago - there are also some modern climbing routes here.Routes of the NW face are:1. to Monte Civetta or Piccolo Civetta:a) Via degli Inglesi (Phillimore-Dimai-Siorpaes 1895) - 1.020 m drop - 3.000 m lenght - AD / UIAA IVb) Via degli Agordini (Tomè-De Toni-Dal Buos 1906) - 980 m drop - 1.800 m lenght - D / UIAA IVc) Via Stewart (Stewart-Pompanin-Sommermatter 1907) - 1.020 m drop - 2.000 m length - D inf / UIAA IVd) Via degli Italiani (Cozzi-Lampugnani-Saluzzi 1911) - 1.020 m drop - 1.800 mlrngth - D / UIAA IVe) Via dei Tedeschi (Haupt-Lompel 1910) - 1.000 m drop - 1.500 m length - D sup / UIAA V-f) Direttissima (Solleder-Lettenbauer 1925) - 970 m drop - 1.250 m develope -TD sup / UIAA VI-g) Comici (Comici-Benedetti 1931) - 1.050 m drop - 1.500 m develope - ED inf / UIAA VIh) Direttissima route "Weg der Freunde" (Sepp Mayerl, Renato Reali, Heini Holzer and Reinhold Messner 1967) - 820 drop - 1.050 m length - TD sup / UIAA VI-2. to Punta Tissi: a) Philipp/Flamm 1957, UIAA VI - A1b) Direct route, Martini / Leoni / Tranguillini 1970, 1200 m drop, UIAA VI - A2c) Direct ascent, Piussi / Sorgato / Mazeaud 1965, 800 m drop, UIAA VI - A3d) "Kein Rest von Sehnsucht", Christoph Hainz / V. Pardeller, 1991, UIAA VIII-, no bolts!!3. to Punta Civettaa) Andrich / Faè 1943, UIAA VI - A1, 800 m dropb) Aste / Susatti 1954, UIAA VI - A1, 800 m dropc) "Günther-Messner-Gedächtnisweg" Mayerl / Breitenberger 1970, UIAA VId) Bebak / Ferenski / Kowalewski 1968, UIAA VI - A2, 650 mOf course the face claimed victims among the alpinists - one of the most famous was german climber and poet Leo Maduschka in 1932.

Marmolada-Punta Penia

Marmolada is the highest Dolomites Mountain and, since these last years, the only with a big glacier (north-face). Its surname is "The Queen of the Dolomites" and it is situated between Sella Group (north) and Pale di San Martino (south). Its ridge is a border between two Dolomites regions: Trentino and Veneto. From its peak is it possible to admire all Dolomites (Tofane, Antelao, Pelmo, Civetta, Pale di San Martino, (Sassolungo, Catinaccio, Latemar), the Ortles-Cevedale Group, the Adamello glacier (near Brenta Dolomites) and, with a good sky, the autrian alps (GrossGlockner and GrossVendiger groups). Its main peak is considered the “Punta Penia” but it has other 4 peaks:Punta Penia 3343Punta Rocca 3309Punta Ombretta 3230Monte Serata 3069Pizzo Serauta 3035Its second peak, Punta Rocca, is reaching by cable car while its main peak, Punta Penia, is leading only climbing its wonderful face: north (ice and rocks), south (rocks) and west (rocks, via ferrata). On the Punta Penia there is a little refuge (open in summer, 8 beds, 0462-764207).

Getting there

A good point to start for climbing/hiking on marmolada is Fedaia Pass (2054 meters), situated between Canazei and Malga Ciapela (the start point of Punta Rocca cabla car). On the pass is situated a very nice lake.

From ora/AUer (exit Brennero highway) through Predazzo, Moena, Vigo di Fassa, Pozza di Fassa, Campitello di Fassa, Canazei by SS48, 77 km.

From Cortina d'Ampezzo through Arabba and Passo Pordoi by SR48 (50 km) or through Giau Pass and Selva di Cadore.

From Belluno through Agordo and Alleghe SP563, 83 km

Routes Overview / NORTH FACE AND WEST RIDGE ROUTESThe north and west face routes leave from Fedaia Pass (2057 meters), situated at 30 minutes by car from Canazei (Trentino) or 40 minutes from Selva di Cadore (Veneto). From Cortina Pass through Giau Pass (1h30 by car). At Fedaia Pass there is a cable-car to Pian dei Fiacconi (2700 meters) where there is a refuge (2626 meters, 0462-601412, 25 beds, open between 20 June and 20 Sept).To sleep around Fedaia Pass: Ref. Castiglioni (2054 meters) 0462-601107, 67 beds, open all year, and Ref. Alla Seggiovia (2074 meters), 0462 – 601181, 18 beds, open between 20 June and 20 Sept.SOUTH FACE ROUTESThe south face routes are more difficult than north and west face routes. They started from Ref. Contrin (2016 meters, 0462-601101, 90 beds, open between 20 June and 20 Sept, 1h45 by walk from Alba di Canazei, Trentino.Marmolada south wall is a huge wide wall with difference in elevation up to 900 m.!! It hosts some of the most difficult (classic and modern) routes of the Dolomiti (more difficult than the more famous routes of Lavaredo!) To be remembered, as the finest (between the classic ones): to Punta Penia (the highest one) the Tomasson route, the classic (and the "easier) - 650m - Dsup (5.6) via Soldà - 700m ED pillar Micheluzzi - 700m - ED to Punta Roccathe Vinatzer route (opened in 1936!! ) - 800m - ED (5.10) the Messner variant (opened in 1969) - high part of the wall, over the big ledge - ED (5.10) the Mariacher route (Tempi Moderni - 1982) - 800m - ED sup (5.11) to Marmolada d'Ombrettathe Castiglioni route - D sup the Giordani route (via Fortuna - 1985) - 900m - ED sup (5.11) the Aste route (Via dell'Ideale) - 900m - ED

Refuges

FEDAIA LAKE- refuge Passo Fedaia (2055 meters) 0437.722007- refuge Ettore Castiglioni (2055 meters) 0462.601117- refuge alla Seggiovia (2080 meters) 0462.601181ON THE SOUTH ROUTE- refuge Ombretta O. Falier (2080 meters) 0437.722005- refuge Contrin (2016 meters) 0462.60110MARMOLADA PEAK- refuge Punta Penia (3343 meters) 0462.764207ON THE NORMAL ROUTE- rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi (2628 meters) 0462.601412- rifugio Ghiacciaio Marmolada (2730 meters) 348.3539282OTHER SIDES- rifugio Monzoni (2045 meters) 368.3577617

Sassolungo - Langkofel

Over View

Sassolungo is part of the Sassolungo Group. It stands over Val Gardena in Dolomites. In the group there are 8 major peaks and Sassolungo is the highest one (the other ones are Sassopiatto, Dente, Torre Innerkofler, Cima Dantersass, Punta Grohman, Punta Cinque Dita, Spallone del Sassolungo). The group is still not so much crowded even in August (vacation period in Italy). The only crowded areas of the group are the path that crosses the group connecting two Rifugi (Demetz and Vicenza), the path performs the tour around the group and the vthe two easy ways to summit the Sassopiatto (the via ferrata and the normal way). If you enter within the group the crowd disappears, but the real show begins. So if you are not afraid of being alone in a wild mountain find the way to explore the inner parts of Sassolungo group. In the group, the Sassopiatto peak is the only one that can reached without climbing. Very nice group, great mountain. There are climbing ways of all levels of difficulty in the group, but for every summit there is always a normal way that does not exceed the IV degree of the UIAA scale or below. These climbings are very much in the "original" environment, so do not expect spits, fix, marked ways or sport climbing. The normal ways usually have some pitons and if you are experienced in moving in "wild areas" it is easy to follow them. Usually these ways are called "alpinistic" ways. Remember these are NOT prepared ways, do NOT go there in "shorts" or with an inadequate equipment: it is a serious mountain where it is easy to get lost. In the route section I will briefly describe the normal way to reach the summit of the Sassolungo itself and a very nice hike that can be done around the whole group. The climb to Sassolungo is clearly suggested to experienced mountaineers/climbers while the hike can be done by almost everybody (a very rewarding family walk).Sassolungo stands in the so called ladin area. Ladin is a language that derived directly from latin with the influence of rethic languages (german similar). The ladin area is spread in the alps, as an example the Grigioni area of Switzerlad is a ladin area as it is this part of the Dolomites (even if Grigioni is few hundeds kilometers away from Dolomites). The valleys Gardena, Fassa and Badia are part of the ladin area in Dolomites. Local persons from these valleys speak normally ladin among them. The original ladin name of this mountain is in fact Saslong (and here you hear the similarity and the common latin origin of ladin and italian languages).

Getting There

There are many ways to reach the Sassolungo. The most known (and easy) one is from the Passo Sella (parking) about 2200 m.. You can reach the Passo from Val Gardena or from Val di Fassa. As an example coming from the Brennero Expressway exit at Chiusa follow direction towards Val Gardena cross all the Valgardena following the directions towards Passo Sella (From Chiusa the driving time is 60/90 min)Other possibilities are walking from Alpe di Siusi (Seiser alp) or coming from Santa Cristina in ValGardena through the Monte Pana lift and then walking until you reach the path described in the "hike around the Sassolungo".Finally you can reach the group from Val di Fassa using the Col Rodella lift that will leave you very close to the Federico Augusto and to the Salei Rifugi.

Red Tape

No permits required, no fees. In case you want to do the climbing to the Sassolungo summit, even if you can walk from Passo Sella to Rif. Demetz I suggest that you take the lift (it will save you about 400 m of walking up. Usually (in summertime) the lift opens at 8:15 am and closes at 5:00 pm. In August you can find both free and paying parking places at the Passo Sella

Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen)

Over View

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo (aka in German, Drei Zinnen) are the symbol of the Italian Dolomites. They are part of the Sesto/Sextener Dolomites. The massif stands alone with no other peaks in the immediate vicinity, which accentuates its height and beauty. While the name indicates three towers, there are actually six named towers, from West to East:

Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Westliche Zinne) -2973m

Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Große Zinne) - 2998m

Cima Piccola di Lavaredo (Kleine Zinne) -2857m.

Punta di Frida - 2792m

Cima Piccolissima di Lavaredo (Kleinste Zinne) -2700m

Torre Minor (Allerkleinste Zinne)

Torre Minor is climbed when climbing the Preuß Crack on the NE Face of Cima Piccolissima. In addition, many of the pinnacles have names and routes. The map below was drawn by SP member Gangolf Haub. The normal routes on Cima Grande and Cima Piccola attract the most climbers, because of the easy approach and relatively easy routes. The Cima Piccola is also free of snow sooner. These routes have been polished smooth and rockfall triggered by climbers is an ever present danger.

Getting There

Bolzano (Bozen), Italy and Innsbruck, Austria have airports and are major train terminals. From either of these cities, drive or take a bus or train to Bressano (Brixen). Drive or take a bus/train to San Candido (Innichen) on Road E66 from Bressanone (Brixen). The main road runs from Bressano through Brunico to Cortina d'Ampezzo. From there, one crosses Passo Tre Croci to reach Misurina. Or one can turn off north of Cortina at Carbonin to reach Misurina. There is a bus from Cortina The road has an expensive toll for private transport. Apparently you can avoid the toll if you get there before 7am.There is parking practically at the base of the massif at the Auronzo Hut and a wide trail leading from there to the approach trails and other huts.Buses do not go everywhere nor is the schedule always climber friendly so you may prefer to have your own car. We have found it cheaper to arrange car rental from the US. I can't say if this is true if you are coming from a different country. We have gone by train to Innsbruck and rented a car there. Rent the smallest car that meets the need. The roads in the Dolomites are narrow, exposed and winding with few guard rails. Bicycling is very popular and you are also sharing the road with tourists with poor mountain driving skills and tour buses. Parking occasionally is problematic. It seemed to be much easier to get around with a little car. Be aware that because car theft is supposedly a problem in Italy, most rental places want you to have a credit card with a limit equal to the car's value or buy special insurance. They will require you to rent and use a steering wheel block as well. Gasoline in Europe is really expensive (easily triple of US gas prices), but the distances are mercifully very short.It's about a 2 hour drive from Innsbruck to the Dolomites. The freeways in Italy are toll roads. If you are in a hurry, they are excellent and the tolls not too expensive. However, if you want to see the countryside and/or if your budget is tight, use the main roads that parallel the freeway. With a decent road map (or printing out Mapquest maps) navigation is easy. Everything is well signed. The roads everywhere were in good shape.

Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Westliche Zinne)

The Cima Ovest (Westliche Zinne) has many fine routes including the NE-ridge, the Cassin-route and the Swiss route. While the rock is polished on these routes, other routes (although not less worthwhile) are still in a more natural state. The rock is mostly solid and compact, and it has a very good grip.The first ascent was by Michel Innerkofler with the tourist G. Ploner on 21. August 1879. Another popular route, the NE-ridge (Demuth Kante) was climbed by Demuthm Lichtenegger and Peringer in 1933. 2 years later, there was a big conflict concerning the first climbing of the North Face: Hintermeier and Meindl fixed ropes for the roof-traverse, but did not finish the route. Cassin and Ratti instead used those ropes, destroyed them after wards and proceeded to finish the route. The first direct route through the North Face in 1959 saw a similiar competition between Schelbert/Weber and Bellodis/Franceschi. Most recently, climbers have been looking to develop new free climbing routes.

RoutesOrdinary Route From Auronzo hut to the start, 45 min. 350 m vertical, UIAA II (YDS 5.2 ish) 3 hours.NE Ridge From the Lavaredo hut to the start, 45 min. 500m, UIAA VI+ or V+/A0, 5 hrs.North Face (Cassin Route) 1 hour to start from the Lavaredo hut. 450 m of UIAA VIII- or VI-/A2 9 hrs.NW Ridge (Spigolo Degli Scoiattoli or Squirrel's Ridge) Lorenzi, Michielli, Ghedina and Lacadelli in 1959. The Scoiattoli di Cortina (Squirrels of Cortina) is one of the more important climbing teams in the area. Same start as for the Cassin Route. 450 m A2/V+ 8 to 15 hours. A slow party may have to bivouac.Descent Basically the Ordinary Route , marked with many cairns, 1.5 hours.

Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Große Zinne)

The Cima Grande (Grosse Zinne) is the middle and the highest tower of the group. It provides a route for everybody: the nice and easy, but very polished normal route, some famous pleasure climbing routes of middle and higher difficulties, and many very difficult, extreme routes. The North Face has always been a symbol of highest difficulties of extreme climbing. The first ascent was already in 1869 by P. Grohmann with the guides F. Innerkofler and P. Salcher. The alternative easy route on the South Face, the Mosca Chimney, was first climbed in 1903 by Mosca and Stuger. It is common to climb the Mosca Chimey and descend the regular route.In 1908, the famous NE-edge (the so-called "Dibona-Edge") was climbed by R. Eller solo. Because this ascent was unknown for a long time, the route bears the name Dibona, who with Stubler climbed it in 1909. In 1913, H. Dülfer and W. von Bernuth opened the magnificent W-face-route.On the 13th and 14th of Augut, 1933 Emilio Comici and the brothers G. and A. Dimai climbed the North Face by the Comici Route. The North Face Direct (Haase Route) was first climbed by Brandler, Hasse, Lehne and Löw, July 6-10, 1958

RoutesSouth Face (Ordinary Route) 40 min to start from the Lavaredo hut. 200 m of UIAA II (YDS 5.2 ish), 2.5 hrs. This route ascends the left hand side of the South Face. Mosca Chimney From Lavaredo hut 40 min to start. 200m of climbing UIAA III (5.4) 2.5 hours. Much of the route is the same as the Ordinary Route. It leaves the South Face at the first terrace and ascends the L side of the South Face and then rejoins the South Face at the second terrace. It is popular to climb this route and descend the South Face Route.NE Ridge (Spigola Dibona) From Lavaredo hut to start, 40 min. 550m UIAA IV (YDS 5.5 ish) 4 hrs.West Face Classic Dolomite chimney climbing. From Auronzo hut to start, 45 min. 350 m UIAA V (YDS 5.8+) 3.5 hrs. It is possible to avoid the summit and end the climb 230 m sooner, since the last pitches connect into the Mosca Chimney route.North Face (Comici Route) This is a popular and classic climb. A very early start is recommended. The lower-mid parts of the route until the 25 m traverse are the most difficult (almost everywhere V and VI) the last 150 meters are, technically easier (III and IV with some short passages of V) However, by then climber is often a "little" tired so that difficulties seem higher in the upper section than they really are. 40 min to start from the Lavaredo hut. 500m UIAA VII or VI/A1. 8 hrs.North Face Direct (Brandler-Hasse Route) 40 min from Lavaredo hut to start. 500 VI/A3 12 hrs.Descent The Ordinary Route. The start is marked by a cairn and red mark. Several rappels and some scrambling. UIAA II, 2.5 hrs.

Cima Piccola di Lavaredo (Kleine Zinne)

The architecture of the Cima Piccola is more broken up than those of the Cima Ovest and Cima Grande. The slender summit tower is located on a big pedestal, which drops vertically on all sides. It has a clear-cut foresummit in the SE. The pedestal is connected with the Punta di Frida and the Preuss tower at the Forcle di Frida. All ascents are exposed and provide wonderful rock with very good grip. The rock is hard and very polished in the popular routes. on lesser known routes, one can find crumbling passages.The guides Michel and Hans Innerkofler from Sexten climbed the Cima Piccola for the first time on 25 July 1881, thereby setting a new standard for climbing. The first ascent by women was undertaken by the Duchess Ada von Sermoneta in 1882. In 1884 Ludwig Purtscheller, Emil and Otto Zsigmondy and Heinrich Koechlin were first to climb the Cima Piccola without a guide. The first ascent in winter was by Theodor Wundt and his companions in December 1892. Like the first ascent of this mountain, the first ascent through the North Face was pioneering work: Sepp Innerkofler climbed the North Face solo and without a rope, almost until the summit, before he descended. He then brought up (together with his brother Veit) the client Hans Helversen. At that time, the guides wore only nailed wooden clogs! The E-face-chimney, which is today almost forgotten, was considered one of the most difficult climbing routes of the group for a long time. It was directly climbed 1909 by Kurt and Ernst Kiene. Emilio Comici, Mary Varale and Renato Zanutti climbed for the first time the famous and very exposed Yellow Edge, "the characteristic, magnificent, yellow overhanging rock, which falls down to the depth below the obelisk of the southern foresummit almost unpossibly slender and slime like an awl" (Berti).

RoutesSW Face (Ordinary) From Aurozo to start 20 min. 300 m of UIAA III (YDS 5.3), 2 hr.North Face - East Chimney From Lavaredo hut to base 40 min. 450 m of UIAA IV (YDS 5.6) 2.5 hrs.NW Ridge From the Lavaredo hut about 2.5 hrs to start. 280 m UIAA VI+/A1. 9 hrs. Very hard free climbing on poor rock, not often done. First ascent by Comici and Mazzorana in 1936.South Arete - Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) This famous route takes the arete direct to the lower summit( Anticima). See the attached route page for more details.Egger/SauscheckSee route page for further informationDescent A series of rappels (anchors in place) that closely follows the ordinary route. 2 hrs.

Accommodation

Camping, hostels, hotels and condominiums abound in the valleys all around the Dolomites. There are three huts:Rif. Auronzo (Auronzo hut) - 2330mA hotel which is situated on the S-side of the 3 Zinnen. One can drive to it from Misurina and there is a large parking place for day trippers.Rif. Lavaredo (Lavaredohütte)- 2344 mA little, private hut which is situated near the Patternsaddle, southern below the Kleine Zinne. About 30 minutes from the Auronzo Hut. Many climbers camp near here.Rif. Locatelli alle Tre Cime ( 3-Zinnen-Hütte) -2405 m:A big hut at the Toblinger Riedl. It is situated between the 3 Zinnen, the Paternkofel and the Dreischustergroup. 45 minutes from the Lavaredo hut on the north side the massif.

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돌로미테 영문자료

Vie ferrate in the Dolomities

트레킹 루트

치베타

Sassolungo - Langkofel

Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen)

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돌로미테 영문자료

Vie ferrate in the Dolomities

트레킹 루트

치베타

Sassolungo - Langkofel

Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen)

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